The Dolls - Over 25 Years of Drag in Athens
It was a risk.
I wanted to see some drag in Athens and what kept appearing time and time again was the name ‘Koukles Cub’ or Dolls Club. The risk was not knowing what to expect; when supporting the Drag/LGBTQ+ scene while traveling, you can stumble upon some fantastic performances, but also some choices. Either way, it’s important to show up. However, my plan of appearing at a drag bar for a show that started at 1am felt like it would either pay off or be a story my partner would tell to our friends about that time we went to a dark street in Athens at midnight to see a bad lip-sync and a plastic wig.
Walking through the red door frame just after midnight, we paid the entrance fee and made our way into a modestly filled room with small cabaret tables in front of a stage that is covered by a taught red sequined curtain that looked ready to burst, like it was a size too small for the stage. Every table had a reserved sign on it so we made home by the bar and ordered the first round. This was a high bar with a table behind the server that was heaving with bottles of gin, rum, vodka and beer, all lined up like soldiers at a gay parade, ready to be of service.
Generously poured drinks obtained, we craned our necks, concerned that we wouldn’t have the best view of the stage. The barman, noticing this, dived under the bar, took me by the wrist and gestured for us to follow, oblivious that while stuck in a vice-like grip, I had no choice but to go with him.
He pulled out a table revealing a bench that we could sit at right by the stage. We were so close that we could smell the hot-glue and count the sequins on the red curtain.
The background music faded, unceremoniously. Chatter continued with whispered excitement. The barman approached the stage, stepping to the side of the curtain and grabbing onto one side of a pulley rope, presumably poised to tear apart the red wall of anticipation. His head peeked behind to make sure the performers were ready; there were hurried back-and-forths in Greek, when suddenly the music roared into life and the curtain ripped apart.
Standing in shimmering gold, blue, pink and green gowns with wide-brimmed feather and pattern-finished hats were the crème de la crème of the classic Athenian drag scene. What followed was an hour and forty five (YES, 1hr 45mins) of a drag show that would have made Liberace think “that’s a bit camp”.
It was tremendous. Lip-syncing and singing in Greek, Spanish, German and English, we were treated to some drag standard ranging from Liza’s “New York, New York” to Celine Dion and often underappreciated disco hit “No More Tears” from Barbra Streisand and Donna Summer, as well as comedy bits and sketches. After a number with what I can only describe as the Greek Édith Piaf, she’s joined on stage by a Greek goddess holding an electricity bill she cannot afford. All capped off with hit after hit leaving you entertained and delighted.
Opened in 1994 by entrepreneur Marilou Fragiadaki, Koukles Club has earned its place in the pantheon of drag. Part of the formula for success is not only a focus on the professionalism and production values but the inclusion of and respect for drag performers from the beginning.
According to LIFO, “The cut that the Dolls made is that they focused on trans artists in their shows. Until then, drag in Greece was associated with cis men who dressed in women's clothes.” Marilou says; “I do what I like and I don't care too much about third parties, I've never cared what people will say about me, I charted my own path. I love people. In '94 all the girls worked sidewalks. My goal was to take as many girls as I could from there and put them here. And of course this shop opened the eyes of the world to see these children with a different eye, to see that they are not just for the avenue.”
Plese, if you find yourself in Athens, go and support the Dolls.